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 Post subject: SP 1 upgrades
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 5:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 4:47 pm
Posts: 1
Does anyone have any recommendations for upgrades on an SP 1?? Or would like to show their SP 1..... post up your link I'm getting my SP 1 soon so I'd would appreciate some tips.


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 Post subject: Re: SP 1 upgrades
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 4:44 pm 
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I Can Pull The Trigger!
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:16 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Burlington, NJ, USA
Upgrades for SP-1

-Stock (if you like/use one) I have a CAR stock from "Trinity" and my teammate Rogue has a T2W stock from SpecialOps that attaches to the ASA but is kinda pricey

-Virtue SP-1 Board. This is my next upgrade and is worlds better than the Blackheart. Once again Rogue has more personal experience with this, but there's no one I trust more when it comes to fieldtesting gear.

-Locking feed neck from "Trinity". I love this feedneck and it is a "Ton" more durable than the plastic stock SP feedneck. Not everyone has had problems with the stock feedneck but I cracked mine the 2nd time I used it. Possible user error by overtightening it.

-Better Barrel. Do I really need to say anything?

Hope this helps alittle.

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 Post subject: Re: SP 1 upgrades
PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:54 pm 
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I Can Pull The Trigger!
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 8:14 am
Posts: 57
Double Triggers are pretty clutch as well.

I upgraded the bolt with a TechT, but that's a minor difference.

I can't find a reg upgrade to save my life.

The only thing I've seen if people using their Ion frames to mount triggers + CP regs.

I also have an ON/OFF ASA, and I removed the braided hose for a macro line, but that's just preference.

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 Post subject: Re: SP 1 upgrades
PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:54 pm 
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Expert
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Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 284
Location: Manchester, NJ
Before I wax on about upgrades, I recommend you play with the marker in stock form to see what YOU think you need. SP1's are very good, reliable performers bone stock, and while its easy to dump a crapload of money into mods, a lot of people will do so without ever realizing real performance gains because they don't have the know-how or time to tune the whole package to work together. Ultimately, as long as it shoots whole paintballs out of the barrel at a relatively consistent velocity, its hard to improve on that. Don't buy mods just because you can, buy them if you feel there is a legitimate deficiency in the marker's performance that is hampering your game. For instance, the only reason I ended up putting a board in my SP1 was so that I could add a bolt and quick exhaust valve to improve efficiency so that I could carry a smaller tank and retain the same amount of pods on my vest while still being able to shoot them all. Smaller tank = less weight and smaller target = me less tired and less painted at the end of the day.

With that said....

There simply are NO regulators 7/8" in diameter that are long enough to work (assuming, of course, you want to retain the stock vertical grip cover thingy... I'm thinking of getting a bigger ergo grip thats a similar style and seeing what I can do with that. The only one thats even close in length is the Long version of the AKA Sidewinder but the diameter is too big for the stock grip. Of course, you can always ditch the grip and use whatever reg you want, if it wasn't for the fact I like the grip, I'd have an AKA 2liter on there already- hands down, best reg on the market. I'd really like to see the stock SP1 reg put on a reg tester though, because the older SP MaxFlo regs were very good performers, actually, and they call the SP1 reg a "micro MaxFlo" I think. I don't know how similar they are in actual construction though as I've never had a chance to look over an older Max.

As for stocks, my advice is a T-stock. It gives you plenty of mask clearance and keeps the marker in a better location for aiming when shouldered than the CAR stocks. My T2W setup works well for me, but you'd never catch me spending $120 on another T2W when a $30 T-stock does the job equally as well.

As for boards- until I see that Smart Parts has changed the design of the Blackheart to relocate the LED away from the actual power button, I'm recommending Virtue, despite the cost difference. I bought TWO Blackhearts (one for each of my SP1) and both LED indicators broke during installation or within days, and once that happens, you can't program the board. Virtue has a relocated LED that can't be broken off, and I have had zero issues with it whatsoever. The only problem is that if you want to use breakbeam eyes with the virtue, you still have to buy the eye-ready breech from SP, along with eyes and an eye wiring harness. Which adds up. These are included with the Blackheart board, for a lower price than just the Virtue board alone- but at least the Virtue board works without failure.

Bolts really shouldn't even be messed with without a board upgrade, as the zero-adjustability of the SP1's stock board settings won't let you take proper advantage of them anyway. However, with a board upgrade, I recommend the Techt L7. I have a Deadlywind Hollowpoint, the original version of which I used to use in my Ion, but I've had issues with the new version- I think its just TOO light for its own good, and the wear I'm seeing on the front of it seems to indicate that the machinework on the included backcap/bolt stock does not have very precise tolerances... I never had any issues with the Techt bolts I've used in my Ions and SP8's, so from this point on I'll be sticking with them.

Detents are also a nice cheap upgrade- the stock ones are rubber nubbins which produce a lot of bolt drag. I use Kila Products magnetic detents in my SP1 and they're awesome- much less hassle than other aftermarket spring-based detents, the only problem is they seem to be hard to find in stock at times (probably because their popularity outruns Kila's manufacturing capability). DO NOT try to use NDZ detents, they won't fit. I had a spare set from my Ion that I tried to use and I guess the SP1's detent holes are just a wee bit tighter than the Ion's were.

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